Breeding Tetraploid Reds
This is an article written by A. Dean Stock, Ph.D. It was published in the IPA newsletter in 2005. There is an "interview afterwards. This article is used with permission.
 

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Diploids, triploids and tetraploids – why breed for tetraploid reds?  For clarification: “n” equals 19, which is the number of chromosomes in either the pollen or the ovule of a normal diploid phalaenopsis.  In a full set of genetic material, consisting of paired chromosomes, there will be 2n or 38 chromosomes.  In a triploid plant, there are 3n or 57 chromosomes; in a tetraploid, there are 4n or 76 chromosomes and, in an aneuploid, which results from breeding a diploid or a tetraploid with a triploid, there is an abnormal or odd number of chromosomes. 

The major reasons for breeding towards tetraploid red phalaenopsis is to increase flower size and to obtain a more standard phalaenopsis shape. Increased flower count and better presentation are additional breeding goals. Better growth of seedlings with fewer months to  flowering is an often overlooked breeding goal. Breeding with good stable tetraploid plants does much to achieve even rapid growth of seedlings.  Anueploid seedlings often have poor growth and many breeders of so-called novelty phalaenopsis have found that their crosses often take much longer to flower than tetraploid whites and pinks.  Tetraploid reds and yellows in Taiwan may bloom in two years.  I can bloom them in two and a half to three years and I’m not really equipped for rapid growing. This is a major reason that the Taiwan breeders have taken the lead in the production of new red and yellow Phalaenopsis hybrids. An additional problem in earlier red breeding programs was the use of Phal. George Vasquez ‘Eureka’, FCC/AOS.  This plant is a diploid but grows and matures very slowly.  Unfortunately, it also transmits this characteristic to its progeny.

Almost all of U.S. breeding has been with diploids, triploids, and the aneuploids that have resulted from breeding triploid reds to diploids and tetraploids. Aneuploids were also produced through attempts to increase flower size by breeding triploid reds to tetraploid pinks and stripes.

Diploid red breeding has reached a high level of quality and, as we have seen with Eric Goo’s work, is well worth pursuing.  However, great care must be taken to mate diploids to diploids.  The use of plants such as Phal Cordova, Phal. Golden Buddha or Phal. Spirit House leads to problems.  Most attempts to increase size and flower count with diploid red breeding lines has resulted in the production of triploids.  Unfortunately, triploid phalaenopsis will often produce seed, and the results of using “anything that will breed,” has produced a sea of aneuploids, which are then used in further breeding attempts. The outcome of this type of breeding is the well-known "sterility barrier" so common in today’s phalaenopsis breeding.

To give perspective to the problem, consider what a well-known and experienced phalaenopsis breeder observed in a recent article in the Phalaenopsis Journal that with the matching of Phal. Golden Buddha with Phal. Zuma Garnet, the first of the “new” red phals was produced.  More specifically, the near-tetraploid aneuploid Phal. Golden Buddha was crossed with the diploid Phal. Zuma Garnet to produce the aneuploid plants registered as Phalaenopsis Cordova.  Based on what we know about chromosomes and their relationship to plant sterility, Phalaenopsis Cordova should never be used for breeding.  Crosses of this nature produce dead ends.  Most plants of Phal. Cordova that have been used for breeding are near triploid aneuploids and are poor breeders.  One clone, Phal. Cordova ‘Leucadia’, HCC/AOS is a good breeder.  In the spectrum of aneuploids that usually result from the mating of a triploid with a diploid, tetraploid or aneuploid, it is possible to get a few clones that are near tetraploids or pentaploids that breed freely. If such a clone is near tetraploid, it may be used for breeding without causing too many problems. I have not yet counted Phal. Cordova ‘Leucadia’, HCC/AOS but suspect from its progeny that it is a near tetraploid. The test I usually apply here is that, if a plant produces highly fertile pollen, then it is probably close to even ploidy.  I have examined a few plants that broke this “rule” but those plants that are the exception may be combining chromosomes during pollen meiosis in a way that results in a high number of viable pollen cells with even or nearly even ploidy.  Plants that never breed except as pod parents are trying to tell us something!  Don’t use them for breeding!

The degree to which triploid and aneuploid plants have been used in breeding for reds – and yellows – is such that it is amazing that any fertile plants can be found.  All of this type of breeding should be avoided if one wants to achieve good-sized red phalaenopsis with other desirable traits and with fertility the expected norm instead of a rarity.  Instead, breeders must rely on chance tetraploids such as Phal. Paifang’s Queen ‘Brother’ and Phal. Taipei Gold ‘Gold Star’ or documented colchicine-converted diploids.  All chance tetraploids must be documented by accurate chromosome counting.  One additional important concept here is that converting triploids to hexaploids through colchicine treatment does not produce good breeding plants because hexaploids do not produce stable, even ploidy in their offspring.

Why consider yellow flowers in red breeding?  There is no true red phalaenopsis in nature.  So we create red by combining pigments.  Without strong yellow pigment, you do not obtain strong red color.  You need to produce good tetraploid yellows in order to mate them with tetraploid dark pinks or lavenders.  Where do we get good tetraploid yellows? 

The stage was set by the use of one of those pesky triploid plants, Phal Golden Sands ‘Canary', FCC/AOS. Phal. Golden Sands ‘Canary’, FCC/AOS was out of a cross of a large white and Phalaenopsis fasciata.  The cross produced a lot of good-looking triploid yellows, but the clone ‘Canary’ had the best color.  Several years of breeding attempts yielded nothing, and the plant was thought to be sterile.  Later, several species were bred to this plant, and these crosses have produced many outstanding yellows: Phal. Liu Tuen-Shen (Golden Sands x gigantea); Phal. Golden Amboin (Golden Sands x amboinensis); Phal. Goldiana (Golden Sands x lueddemanniana); and more recently Phal. Golden Bells (Golden Sands x venosa).

Phal. Golden Amboin and Phal. Liu Tuen-Shen have both been very important on the way to reds, but Phal. Golden Bells will also prove to be very important in the future.  These plants are of great importance because they are good tetraploid yellows with strong color, good size and shape, and relatively high flower count. 

Why are they tetraploids?  It turns out that Phal. Golden Sands ‘Canary’, FCC/AOS is a rare plant that gave up trying to split three chromosome sets, and lumped everything together into a 3n ovule.  It does not produce viable pollen. So, when matched with pollen (n) from a diploid species, tetraploids (4n) resulted, and the stage was set for producing good, tetraploid yellows and reds. Not all of the progeny from ‘Canary’, FCC/AOS and a diploid are even tetraploids but many are.  The best test is if they can breed as a pollen parent.  Another modern tetraploid yellow, Phal. Taipei Gold ‘Gold Star’, was a chance tetraploid in an otherwise triploid grex.  This plant will also continue to play a part in the development of large red phalaenopsis.

Now it seemed all we needed was a good source of dark pinks or lavenders.  But crossing tetraploid yellows to tetraploid pinks often produced sunset colors, so this line of breeding was not pursued in the search for clear reds.  With time, and line breeding, this approach would have succeeded, and you will see more of this type of breeding in the future.

In Taiwan, the crossing of a large white, Phal. Mount Kaala, with Phal. pulchra produced an array of triploid plants with pink to lavender blotches and spots.  One of the plants produced had darker color but poor form.  It probably would not have been used for breeding in this country.  A very observant breeder in Taiwan, however, tried the plant and found it to be fertile. This plant would be known as Phal. Paifang’s Queen ‘Brother’, a rare chance-tetraploid resulting from an unreduced 2n pollen cell from the Phal. pulchra.

Brother Orchids used this plant for breeding, and over time, found that, by matching it to plants such as Phal. Liu Tuen-Shen and Phal. Golden Amboin, heavily pigmented, fertile flowers were produced.  Subsequent line breeding by Brother Orchids and others has resulted in a wide selection of heavily spotted and solid red flowers with good fertility and a size ranging from 7 cm. to about 9 cm. To obtain larger sized flowers, we must now concentrate on breeding this wealth of material to large, dark pinks to produce the final result – 10 cm. reds.  Some of this breeding is already accomplished with crosses such as Dtps. Brother Cortez Red showing the way.  We are within a generation or two of our goal.  The plants now available allow any serious breeder to produce a line of large, free-breeding, red phals.  Some of those commonly available that can be used to produce good tetraploid reds follow.  But beware of crosses such as Sogo Cock and Sogo Rose.  Despite their awards and visual appeal, these plants are also triploids or aneuploids.

 

Below are selected grexes of known ploidy:

DIPLOIDS (alphabetical order) :  Abed-nego, Ambonosa, Black Eagle, Dotty Woodson, George Vazquez, Malibu Imp, Princess Kaiulani, Red Elf, Tabasco Tex, Zuma Garnet

TRIPLOIDS: Brother Fancy Free, Brother Love Song, Brother Pico Mary, Brother Ruby, Brother Sandra, Jenco Ruby Princess, Perfection Is, Sogo Grape, Sogo Redbird, Talung’s Red Fire, Yuda Sun, Pago Pago, Penang, Stone Hot, Sweet Memory, Orchid World, Sogo Cock, Sogo Rose

ANEUPLOIDS: Ai Gold (near-tetraploid), Ambo Buddha, Cadiz Rock (some clones are near tetraploid), Cordova, Deventeriana ‘Treva’, AM/AOS (this is a near-tetraploid), Ember, Franz Liszt, Golden Buddha (some clones are near tetraploid), Leucadia Lava Flow, Mahalo, Red Hot Imp, Spirit House, Summer Wine, Rebel, Red Buddha, Red Thrill, Rose Gold (near-tetraploid), Sogo Pony

TETRAPLOIDS USEFUL IN BREEDING: Auckland Buddha, Black Rose, Brother Delight, Brother Fancy, Brother Glamour, Brother Jungle Cat, Brother Kaiser,  Brother Passion, Brother Peacock, Brother Pirate King, Brother Precious Stones, Brother Purple, Brother Sally Taylor, Brother Spots Way, Brother Supersonic, Brother Utopia, Brother Yew ‘La Flora’, Chimei Buddha,  Ching Her Goddess, Chingruey’s Blood-Red Sun, Chingruey’s Goddess, Chingruey’s Sika Deer, Dou-dii Golden Princess, Fortune Buddha ‘Tinny’, Golden Amboin, Golden Bells, Golden Peoker, Golden Sun, Goldiana, Liu Tuen-Shen, Paifang’s Auckland, Paifang’s Queen ‘Brother’, Queen Spot, Salu Peoker, Salu Spot, Sentra, Salu Sun, Sara Lee ‘Eye Dee’, Sogo Champion, Sogo Yew,  Strawberry Wine, Super Stupid, Taipei Gold ‘Gold Star’

 

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH DEAN STOCK

 

Q. I understand that you recommend the use of tetraploid parents to give tetraploid offspring. Are there exceptions? (After all, Golden Sands ‘Canary’ produced Liu Tuen-Shen and Golden Amboin.)

A.  Normally, you would expect most successful tetraploid breeding clones to come from tetraploid x tetraploid crosses.  Plants like Golden Sands 'Canary' are rare and not all of the progeny (with a diploid) are tetraploid but fortunately, many are. Tetraploids occur, but infrequently, in crosses between most triploids and diploids such as in the case of P. Taipei Gold 'Gold Star' and Paifang's Queen 'Brother'.  Almost all of the plants from  these crosses were triploid.   Some of the original P. Golden Buddhas were tetraploid.  Unfortunately, these were sib crossed with triploids which produced aneuploid P. Golden Buddhas.  The successful breeders of this group were near tetraploid and these have been line bred so that they are now pretty close to tetraploid and cause few problems.

Q. You have mentioned that multifloras are really “screwed up” (my term, not yours) because of breeding diploids, triploids and tetraploids. Is there any way out of this mess?

A.  Many of the smaller flowered "multiflorals" are good diploids.  The problems arise when one tries to cross these with larger whites, pinks, harlequins, etc., which are tetraploids.  The way out of this is to colchicine treat those lines that may be useful and also to use P. Sara Lee 'Eye Dee' (tetraploid) to make multiflorals.  Much of this type of breeding has already been done in an array of colors.  P. Brother Sara Gold is a good example of this line of breeding. 

Q. Assuming that all species, primary hybrids and similar hybrids are diploids, are there tetraploid phals that are fragrant?

A.  Most tetraploid phals have little fragrance compared to diploid species such as P. violacea.  However, some of the recently developed clones of the magenta and "blue" violacea may be tetraploid. There may be a very fragrant tetraploid P. Sweet Memory lurking out there as I have heard of one with fertile pollen out of this triploid grex.

Q. Princess Kaiulani has produced some exceptional offspring. Are they all triploids or aneuploids? If not, is there any way to “guarantee” tetraploids?

A.  I do not know of any tetraploid offspring of P. Kaiulani.  It is very unfortunate that plants of this grex were not colchicine converted to tetraploids. The recently developed breeding line of P. Krull's Red Hot and P. HP Norton may be as good for producing good saturated red tetraploid flowers.

Q. Many plants hang a pod quite easily, always with no seed. Is this common? Are they all triploid and aneuploids?

A.  Most aneuploids and some triploids have great difficulty in producing viable seed.  However, seed production is more complex than simple ploidy problems.  It is not uncommon to find a good diploid or tetraploid plant that does not produce fertile seed.  I have had mature tetraploid plants produce no seed one season and the next year be very fertile both with pollen and pod.  In addition, some tetraploid first bloom plants are very fertile while others must mature for a year or two to become fully fertile.  The factors controlling this are not yet well understood.

Q. Why are some tetraploid crosses very fertile and others much less so?

A.  I believe this has a lot to do with the match between the genomes of different species involved in making complex hybrids in phals.  Some of the phal species have a lot of "extra" DNA in the form of repeated DNA sequences.  These are not transcribed genes but may cause mismatching during Meiosis.  Meiotic configurations involving 4 sets of chromosomes can get a little complicated.  Pentaploids and Hexaploids (very rare) have even more problems and like triploids, should not be used for breeding. 

Q. If you could give some advice to people buying plants/flasks on what to look for, what would it be?

A.  Big subject!!!!!  Depends on what the individual is after.  Things to watch for though are harlequins crossed with diploids; species crossed with large pinks, whites, stripes, etc.; crosses with a plant from a likely triploid cross (i.e. species to large whites) used in breeding. I would avoid all of these combinations.  If one desires only a nice flower for sale as pot plant or for awards and is not interested in further breeding, then forget ploidy issues except that a triploid crossed to either a diploid or a tetraploid may produce a lot of very poor flowers. 

Q. You like red phals. What are the 3 most important red phals in the history of novelty breeding.

A.  I do like red phals but I breed only tetraploid reds.  There are many good diploid reds.  If I had to choose my current favorite tetraploid red phals they would be: P. Chingruey's Fancy 'Kimo'; P. Chingruey's Blood-Red Sun (several clones); Haur Jih Fancy (many); P. Orchidview Tabasco (many) and P. H.P. Norton (many).  The three most important  phals in tetraploid red breeding are not red!  These would include P. Golden Amboin, P. Liu-Tuen Shen, and P. Paifang's Queen 'Brother'.

Q. You state that to produce red in phals, you need a yellow base. Is this to cancel/neutralize the “blue” pigment that is so often present. (I am referring to the reds that are red-purple.)

A.  Yes, to achieve what we perceive as true red in phals (rather than purple/red), one has to add strong yellow from flavenoid and/or carotenoid pigments.

Q. Can you rank the following qualities – easiest to obtain to hardest.

Size
Color
Form
Flower count
Shingling on inflorescence

A. Ranking qualities in tetraploid phals that are easiest (1) to most difficult (5):

 
1. Form
2. Flower count
3. Shingling on inflorescence
4. Color
5. Size
 
On any given day I might reverse the last two!

Thanks, Dean!

FYI, for readers, I would rank them as follows in red breeding:

1. Flower count
2. Shingling on inflorescence
3. Color
4. Size (this is nice but to me is less important than form)
5. Form (full, flat, etc.)

Howard

 

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