A - There are two main probabilities for the buds drying up and falling off: the atmosphere in your house is too dry or you have false spider mite. There are many other possibilities such as the plant is stressed (such as no roots or too much or not enough water). Join your local orchid society and learn from the good growers. Keep asking questions. Good luck.

 Q - I have been looking at your website and I see that your greenhouse specializes in novelty hybrids...
It just so happens that I am looking for a specific orchid. I am specifically looking for the cross of P. Dragon's Dazzler x P. (Barbara Buddha x Golden Amboin) x Deventeriana. I would also be interested in P. Dragon's Dazzler x P. Deventeriana 'Treva', AM/AOS.
If you could possibly locate this hybrid for me I would greatly appreciate it.
If you can locate this orchid I will provide all credit card information and a shipping address.
Please contact me via E mail at your earliest convenience. I am very excited and will be waiting to hear from you!

A - I have good news and bad news.

First the bad news. P. Dragon’s Dazzler is P. Taipei Gold x P. venosa, a hybrid that was fairly easy to obtain some time ago. The hybrid you are looking for was possibly made in Taiwan, possibly here. You are the second person to ask about it and I have a feeling that there is a super special one out there somewhere. Another thing to note – by the time the plants of a hybrid begin to bloom, and especially when they bloom a second time, there are probably all sold. This means that you should talk to people with plants to sell and tell them what you are looking for. Many times, they have exactly what you want.

There are two types of orchid vendors – those that know orchids and can help and counsel you and those who know nothing about orchids, to whom orchids are just one more commodity. Each can be helpful. The first type can help you find a particular colored flower. However, the second type may have a pretty plant.

The good news – If you describe the flower (to me or to someone of the first type of vendor), the chances are that they will be able to help you. However, and this is IMPORTANT, some crosses produce a great deal of variation.

With crosses such as these, you may have 100 seedlings and they may all show a great deal of variation. For crosses with a great deal of variation, I usually recommend that people purchase at least 3 seedlings so that they can bloom them and choose the one they like.

Q - Hope you don't mind me bothering you about this, but I thought you should be able to help me. I stumbled across a picture of a Phal. amboinensis 'flava' on the internet. Is this for real? Is this a variation on the species or just an odd cultivar? Is this something new? They also have flava versions of Princess Kaiulani and Ambonosa.

Is this something I should be looking for down the road for producing good yellows?

A - Well, good news and bad news.  One problem with the orchid community is the fact that technically the scientists are the people who decide what exists and what doesn't.  In order for something to be "recognized", it has to be described by a scientist.  So, technically, a new species is not recognized until it is described.  

Now we all know that a new species is there but, technically, it has to be described.  I have been told that the same thing applies to various forms of the species.  Some recognized forms are var. alba, var. flava, etc.  What do these names mean?  Well, there are alba forms of many of the species.  What is an alba form?  It is not necessarily white.  It is a form that lacks the red and red-brown pigments.  So, the plant that you referred to would probably be called an alba form by a scientist.  

Q - What exactly is the difference among the terms 'mericlone', 'meristem' and 'stem propagation'?

A - Technically a meristem is the growing point of a plant. A propagation multiplied (usually in the 100s or 1000s) from the meristem is called a mericlone. The terms meristem and mericlone are used interchangeably to mean mericlone.

A stem prop (or propagation) is a propagation (plant) made the blooming stem of a phalaenopsis. Without the use of chemicals, few can be produced. Let's say an average of 3 to 5 per node, depending on the capabilities of the person doing the work, the vigor of the plant, etc.

Q - I just got a new plant and it seems to be infested with mealybugs. HELP!

A - First, separate the infected plant from all the others. Then bear in mind that mealybugs are among the hardest insects to get rid of.  There are several ways to do it.  I prefer to use Cygon 2E.  It is a systemic but is HIGHLY toxic!!!  Be careful.  Use a gas mask.  And the first application (of almost every insecticide) kills the adults. The second application will kill the larvae when they grow up before they can reproduce.  A third application may be needed for a particularly bad infestation.  You do not want to use Cygon in a place with children and animals - and with closed windows.  

Many people use Neem Oil - which is only good for insects it comes in contact with.  It is not a systemic.  Other people like a cotton swab and alcohol.  But that only works on the insects it comes in contact with.  

One serious problem with mealybugs is the fact that they can live in the potting medium among the roots of the plants.  Because they are invisible, they can be very difficult to get rid of.  

Q - Purchasing an Asconopsis Irene Dobkin 'York' it does not seem to want to do anything but put out one leaf per year! I have had it for three years now without an inflorescence. Leaf length is approximately four to five inches and width is two inches, so the plant to my understanding will not be a large one like a phalaenopsis, my question to you is do I have an alternative to making this bloom or toss it? Also the purchase was from Hausermann's so I think the seller is quite reputable don't you? I look forward to your reply.

A - Asconopsis is a man-made genus between Ascocentrum (very high light) and Phalaenopsis (low light). Often, the plants are difficult to grow and, in the case of Asconopsis generally quite slow growing. Moreover, they can be somewhat temperamental and hard to flower.  You seem to be doing well.  Give it somewhat more light than straight phalaenopsis and keep up the good work.

Q - Short of sunburn blisters, how do I determine if my phal.'s are getting too much light? I grow in moss and clay pots, the table is in a south window. The leaves on my 15 plants are very stiff and ridged, most have taken on a lovely dark green, with purple tinge color. I water weekly, weakly, there is a fan close by, and on very sunny days, I adjust the blinds. My 22 paph.'s are closer to the window in moss and plastic, with the phal.'s behind. I've had good luck as a beginner of 2 years, but would welcome advise from you.

A - You've hit the nail on the head.  Before I begin answering, let me state that this answer does NOT apply to paphs.  I know nothing about paphs other than the fact that I cannot grow them well.  As for your phals, very often it is hard to draw the fine line between not enough and too much light.  There are several signs, the most obvious of which is a sunburn blister.  Others are varying amounts of pigment in the leaves, a lighter color in the leaves (darker often indicates not enough light) and a good flower count.  You can usually increase light if you increase air circulation at the same time.  Read Bob Gordon's book Culture of the Phalaenopsis Orchids, revised Edition.  

Q - The question most often asked is the following.  My phal has just finished blooming.  Where am I supposed to cut the inflorescence so that it reblooms?

A - The answer to this is far from simple.  There are two very different viewpoints.  

One group believes that, when flowering is over, you cut the inflorescence at the base.  This permits the plant to rest after blooming and then, next year, to bloom even better.  Blooming is a stress and a plant that blooms continually often (not always) gets weaker.  

The other group wants every flower possible.  It doesn't matter if that means only one or two flowers.  They want the flowers!!!  This means that every flower counts.  (I am generally part of this group.)  As long as an inflorescence is green, I will leave it on the plant.  

There is the possibility that the tip of the inflorescence may elongate and produce a few more flowers.   This means that I will never cut a green inflorescence.  Or, as often happens, a new inflorescence may come in the form of a branch from one of the nodes.  People want to know how to "make" this happen.  Well, while we can assist the production of a new inflorescence, it is up to Mother Nature to produce it.  If the night temperatures go down about 20ºF (10ºC) from the day temperature, there is a good chance that a new inflorescence MAY develop.  Not a guarantee, only a possibility.  

When/if the inflorescence turns brown and dies, it is time to cut it off.   

To get your plant to rebloom, you will need to make sure it is happy (i.e. the medium is fresh, has enough light and that there is a day/night temperature differential of about 20°F.  If your plant is happy and ready to bloom, then it will flower for you.  A plant that does not bloom one year is simply resting.  Why didn't it bloom?  Too many possibilities.  Go to a meeting of a local orchid society and ask an expert.